Sewing machine



Oct. 13, 1931. w Y 1,827,378

SEWING MACHINE FiledMay 12, 1928 a Sfieets-Sheet 1 Oct. 13, 1931. E. E. WINKLEY SEWING MACHINE Filed May 12, 1928 s Sheets-Sheet Y 2 Oct. 13, 1931. E. E. WINKLEY 1 1,827,378

SEWING MACHINE Filed May 12. 1928 1 s Sheets-Sheet s I vpa-tn'tediocti la;

fiRAsT sn (131mm;iunssicxinsii rrs, hssienonf r0 UnjrnjsHoniir A- "rimmed "maria,1n,

and is herein disclosed as efinbodied in alo'ck stitch, outsole shoe sewing machine employm "ing anurved hook needlel I I {The primary" object of theinyention is.-to v: Erovide a nove1 andimprwe'dmechanism for I thep'oint where it is'jjhe d-by the1o0p 'detaining finger-gto set,the{stitchfin the-work by' "1 Y means of a constant throw auxiliary-takemp term stitch is'obtained withthe' loc 'kauni 7 form distance into the work. 'The gmecha-r} andli-ng thread 1 in a I loe ks'titeh machine "f WhiOh 'is'; particularly ad iited for use in a -leath'ersewingmachine of ithisgeneral de- 100k 'set'at thesame distaifee intotheiwork;

I fiWith-this objectin Viwf-the principal featureof the-invention eons'ists in thejp'r'o jvi'sionof mechanism 'Whihhets 'tof piill the '5 Cooperating:

ing the bobbinfthreadainaccordance with the with relation to the surface of'the work, pref- 'erably in c'lo'se "proximitythereto,- and then f jaets'flto" draw the; loop dowii afl'predetermined amount fmm miepdmtt set the stitch a. l'uniform distance 'into'the'g'jjt'orki 1 1 As herein'disclosed in "f loekstitch outsole k I 7 r The several :features of the invention eon- 'si st also in the devices; combinations and arrangement, of; partsz hereinajfter s describedand I claimed and together with! the "advanstages to be obtained therebyshould bfe reedi shoe sewing'machine, then eedle loop'is pulled down by a constant throw take-uplever operating against'a tension uritil the loop is engagged and held by'a loop detaining finger assoiated with they presser .'fo0t' a predeter- "mined distance abo e the surface dfthe work while'the"continuedj'i'operation of the; takev with theiaccompanyingzdrawings; which i1- I i' i histra-te oneiembodimentibf thejinventionj in 8 0 v t I 'y 'ra; loekstiteh shoe sewingi machineQ;Fig; -'1 f {up acts to draw off "fromthe "supply the "amount-of thread required "forthe next succeeding stitch. j-The 100 is drawn downifrom operating against a; thread lock: so that-a described simple in'eonstruction; reqmr ng no separate thread measur ng 'rne'c take-ii p" mechanism in accords-nee with the thickness of the work, and is at the same-time "at a uniform distance the snrjiaee of 'scription to' secure an eveirstitch with each;

insured?" needle lofo'p' downto a predetermined vvpoint,

- 'thre adfr0 m theiobbin -to enable theflock to' bepulledvor' set the desiredldistance into the;

-'- --neetiens; only so Jmfch of the machine; being ianism' or any elaborate *adjustment of ithe points in theasewing'. eycleT;-:'Fig. 13 isia View The locking thread is? thus measured; accu- 7 locking thread to set? the stiteh with; af'ininimum vof strztin-= and ;wear on xthe :th'reads wiqmie b 211mm e w' mew 1 ic n irve a-n1 NEW 7 i *The invention relatesitog-sewing machins'frelative feeding'- movernentsioftthe presser fifoot' and theiworkzto draw thread fr0m"the--- bobbin 'andl'aya section of bobbin or looking :thread along thesni'face of t the' Work prepa ratory to'the formation'of the next'stitch.

Also {the production; of uniforml :ti'ght stitches on both' ts'iirfaoes of the; Workyis with this means for measfire length of thestitc'h a pullofi device isypr0- Vided f0r, pul1in -an iadditional ainountio'f work without breaking thej-bobbinithreadl,

the following description ta'ken'inconneetiox is f a View. ini'rzfronltielevation Off the machine illustrating-particillarly ithe thread a handling idevicesiand':certain ofzlthei'r operatingneonillustrated asis i necessary to show the, con- '5 to i-"1 2 are detail views ofgithe sewing. e ements in? front and side? elevatiom'atgdiflerent nection t of ithe :present invention therewith vFigi iis a viewrinleft side elevation of subh -;stantially thet'saine parts as are" showniin li ifg, '1-";" i 3 is a detail viewltaken 011 the t 'i 1ine '3j 31of Eig:1 Fig; tis a detail sectionalg: 'view'5taken.OntheIinevHQOfEig. s.

of the seam withthedast:stitbhjcbmpletd thebobbin case and the loopfltakeryandjFig.

V v a I jFigi l4 is 'ay'detail,viewf'inisi'de elevation'o'f'f f To ffirtherginsure the'formation of regular 4 "even stitches; alsmall abutment 'is formed onthe presser foota n'd is adapted -dui-i-ng the are actuatedthrough connections hereinafter to bedescribed from a camshaft-414: which-is driven from the shaft 82. through the :gear

The invention is herein disclosed as embodied in a lockstitch shoe sewing machine having'except as hereinafter described a construction and mode of operation substantially similar to the machine disclosed in the patentto Ashworth,No. l;16,9;909 dated February 1, 1918- A curved -hook needle of ordinary construction is indicated at. :20,,,thecurved awl cooperating therewith at 22, ythe work support at 24, the resser .fojot 'at"26'," "thebobbin case at '27, and a loop taker at 28. These parts are actuated from the shafts and 32 of the machine through connections" which are more fully descrihedinthepatent to Ashworth above referred to.

i r The needle thread .passes'gfrom'ithethread supply .through athread tension 33.-of any ordlinary reconstruction :over the pulley 34 shown in dotted linesin Fig. 2, around the pulley86 mounted on .thetakeup lever-87 worth above referred to, further illustration thereof is believedunnecessary =for a'full disclosure of the present invention.

The auxiliary take-up lever 38, the'threa'd clamp40, and the loop" detaining finger 42 46 'mounted on the shaft 32landthe interineshing gear 48 amounted on the shaft '44:. The shaft 32 is in turndriven from the shaft 30 through: a gear :50 vwhich meshes with the gear46." f a The loop detaining lfinger =42 is :pivotally mounted at 52on the presser: foot 26 sothat this finger is-adjusted automatically in accordancevvith the thickness of the work to hold the needle loop a predetermined distance alcove thesurface ofthe stock being operated upon. The finger-42 is provided with an :upwardly-extendingw arm 53 which spondingslotl56 formed inone end ofanactuating lever 58 which is secured to a roclc "shaftoOimounted in azfi-xed hracket 62- The :rock shaft is also .PIOVidQd withia-c a'rn lever- 64-which carries acam:rolll66wadapted a. to engage a cam F68 on the cam shaft .4 so e that the loop detaining finger is given :one

oscillation 'foreach revolution 50f the .main

' camshaft-t0 engage at'the properflpoint inthe cycle of operations with the, needle'iloop.

Due to the cam andslotf connection-between the .loop detaining finger4l2.and;its actuating lever--58, the'lever-isfre'e to move'upf and down :with the presserfoot. I

:In order to avoidvany unnecessary-stretch- 'ing'iof the thread in pulling the loop of needle: threaddown into the-work, :with the consequent irregularities and imperfections in the formation of the seam, the auxiliary take-up and the thread clamp are mounted to operate as close to the work as possible so that the amount of thread acted upon by these parts in setting the stitch is reduced to a; minimum.aggTgathigzend, thei'thread clamp isfmounted to: operateon the thread between the constant throw take-up and the Work and the. auz iary, t kep .is ,nvleu t ngag the; i e' 'be weli the thr i lamp n the under-surface of the work? i if e 1' f Thena ixiliary take-up 38 comprises ashort lever" arm which carries a pulley 7 0 which ,cooperates witha stationary pulley 72. The

auililiarytake iip 38 is loosely mounted to turn. on;- fixed shaft-7e, and is. also-providedwith a asecon d arm :76 which is connected through; a link 7Z8 with. one arm of a hell crank leverSOiloosely sleeved to a rock shaft-1 82. .rThe -free. arm of the ;bell..crank lever 80; is turn connected by means of a linlr84; to -one: of a; hello-rank lever-86 on the; fixed 1 pivot; 87 which carries on-its r freearn acamiroll 8,8. adaptedtoengage with 31116211111390 on the cam; shafted, A {tension spring 91' acts to hold the lever 86 and the roll 88in contact with thecam 90;. The'throw offth auxiliary v,takenip is conveniently radzj usted by means of; a pin; and; slot connection 92 of ordinary construction between the .link

is provided with a icla nping j aw; 94 which 7 cooperates with a correspondingstationary jlfELW'ggQG to i clamp the thread securely against movement; =f'The thread clamp 40 is, actuated from the cam shaft 4ethroughconnections which include an arrn -'98-,Wl1l0l1 is pivotally mounted on "the shaft {74 and is connected to turn; l svitli; the. thread clamp a All through .a yoke-1G0. yielding connection is provided betw en-the arm-- 8ia da je im 2 ec re to the rock shaft-'f82 which comprises :a plungerlQe; secur-ed to ;;theyarm 98 and adapted to fit avithi-n a corresponding sleeve member- 106 pivotally secured-to the arm e102. -';Phc .sleevegmember -106 is also fitted with. a compression}; ,ri11g108 whichtends to force the plunger. inwardly, The, rock shaft82 is also p esi ed th wa m ;l h C isc nected loyfa lin plm with a leverll'e. This leveris-loosely'mounted. on the .fiXed pivot 8C and carrie roll llti Which-is held yieldingl'y inceng. I cam ;;'s'haft by; -BIQQIIS; of a compression ldechanism isalsiq provided -,which is adapted -to pullofi';thread from the bobbin and r lay-it along the surface of the .worlcin gposition: so that when-the needle I loop is pulled down the stitch is set with a minimum of strain on-:;.tl;1e .1threads= This mechanism comprises anmabut nent 120 formed ,on- -the presserfootvvhichis adaptedduringthe feed emeritwitllffl cam I 1181 on the 5120 i sweaters the revidja fareh Ioekin thread-to insure that the -required' "amount; of threadiis provided 'for} each stitch, and com;

" prises afpro'j ectin portion 122 formed "on the loop takenZS r j str ictionw adapted Ito make three revolutions for each sewing cycle "The ;'ull-ofi? i is rendered active to *pull' off additional thread fromthe bobbin when the? locking thread is held taut between thefbobbin case' an'd the "Q'Work ata point in the sewing cycler directl-y =afterthe'nee'dle loop hasbeen cast about the bobbin'by the loop taker; As thepu1l-olf'122 comes intoeo'ntact With the locking thread at this point and acts to force it aside, additional lthreadis drawn from thesupplyg Inasmucha's he amount of-lockin'githreald I I requiredifor each stitch, must Vary'with'the distance to which the lockissetin'th'e work, means areprovided for adjusting the amount of'lo cking' thread pulled off to correspond with the adjustment of the auxiliary take-hp I lever. v Four guide holes indicated at 1126 for the locking thread areprovided; in thebobbin case'iset' atintervals so that the locking thread w h en stretched between each "of these holes and theiworkwill'bemovedaside by the pullolf V'arying ,"amounts: to 1 cause. difierent amounts of threadto be drawn fromjthe bob- 'loinf In this manner, four" diflerentadjilist- ,,ments of the pull-off forthe locking thread gcan.. be obtained 'which correspond to the different adjustments of the auxiliary take-t up leverl; 7 g The operation of the 1-thr'ead handling mechanism above "described follows ;-g'Start-' .ing' Withthe parts in the position's illustrated in F igs. 581M156, afterthe work has been fed forward preparatory to the forming of" a new stitch'and the requisite amount of thread "has been pulled oflfrom thebobbin andlaid along the surface of the ork bythe abutment V V V loop agalnstthe threadztenslon afterpass ngv over the bobbin 5 thread i a irloopld'etaining H15 7 j J fingerfagainst which'theneedle-loop is drawn a. byiithe take-up acto form asleep :zof: ipredeten' mihedzlength above. the: surface: of; the} work, ,1 aaithread locli,.andaan auxiliary take-gupfcooperating therewith toisetythe' stitchiin the work 1. 120 priort'ofthe formation of the neiztneedleloop. Al'ockstitch sewing-5machinejhaving i-n combinatiomla hookyneedle, a'-l oopitaker-, for r 1 passing thezneedlethreadaronndjthejbobbin I thread, a-Work supportiagpressersfoot; a take- 125 iup'for drawing down 'theznedle loop; after a I passingover'the bobbin thread;-a'loop detain- V 'ihg fingersupported ion the press er footfto j "engage with the needle loop a predetermin'ed i distance above the surface'of the work gz'andii io l20 above described, thene'edle-noW descends T "to cause a new loop tobefbrought up through the w'ork V and passed afr fin-d the" bobbin;- as illustrated in dotted 'line's inffFigs. 7 and 8. Iii this-position of the parts5the 10 p detain-v ingfinger 42 is "in its-retracted position. As the needle loop is drawn down by the action I i of'the*take-1ip 36,the loop'detaining finger "is'm oved forwardto engage within the loop iofthe needle thread; so that the'loop is detain'ed by'thefinge'r a predetermined distance tinn d morement "of the take-up causes the reqiiisite amount 'of thi'eadfor thelnext stitch ith ead't n iio :*if epar wh i f h operation: are "in the positionsillustrated in :The nature-and see-peerage lflVHi lBfi 1i 2 ing been'indicated and one'emb'pdimh H combination; a hoe1need1e;- a;1oop take'r'u r1, 1-ichivith theFpresent con- M "thread; a Work-"snpport;' a thregd 'tak -up 'fo'r :idr'awi'n i down the "needle l'qop'tafter ing' finger adapted to engage withithef-needle loop a' predetermineddistance abbvethesur: 1 f "face-of the Work;andfanauxiliary takefup for r h J Vfor ationefthe nextneedle106p; 2; A"lockstitehsewing machinehavin n thread a work'support, 'a-

"drawnby the take np toformadoop ofjpre- -.-dete'rmined length ab'ove the' :surfacewfjthje the- 'stitch intheWork p or e ther of the next needleiloop.

above-the surfaceof the work while' thejconto' be drawnlofif f romlth e stipplji through the.

rigs; 11M 12; raa yahemia ing finger 42 is withdrawn-{ ethrea is operated'to lock the thr'ea' of described, what is cla'i ined'is :f 1 A ilocks'titch"sewingimachine having passing the needle thread around the i bobbin setting the stitch in the work combination, a hook nee'dle; a loop taker for passingtheneedlethread aroundthebobbin I V v read takeupfior' drawing-d wn the needle loop, a loqp detain- 'ing finger against which -the*=needle dooia is l work, and an auxiliary take-ilp for setting nation. a

form a loop of predetermined length: above" the surface of the Work; athrfe'ad-lockfandz'an *anxiliary take-up cooperating. with the thread "lock to'set the'stitch in theiwo k formation of the neizt loop;

thread take-npzfor'drawing doWIiIthe, needle fa ndthe nine, "ary ta keelipfigis" scillated to fin g m hinehai ijrgirin a j c mbination; a:ho k-needle*"alo p taker for", r passing the needlfe thr'e'ad around the. bobbin thread}'afworksnpportfinieans tonpassing "a i needle-loop aroundiithe' 'ibobbin ;thfieadfi a -1,00 v "thread take-np -for am: "11g doivvnithe needle I "loopf'ia loop detaini n'ga finger egain-st wliich. 7 the I needle l'oopqisi drawiifibfy-the. take-'nputoi 1 "priorzto the I I .meanshaui g a constant throw-for. set-ting the H stitch inthe-work. u

:6. A .liockstitch sewing machine .ha ving, in

-. combination, a hook needle, :1; loop taker for passing the needlethreadaround the bobbin thread, "a work support, a presser foot, a

thread-tension, athread take-up fordrawing down the needle loop againstthe tension after j passingover the bobbinthread, aloop detain-- dug=fi-nger-mountedlonrthe presser foot to en- ;gagenthe needleloop apredetermined distance eabovethe work,-ta thread lock and an auxil- .=iary take'-up;having a constant throw cooper- ,ating therewith to set the stitch in the work.

7. A ,lockstitch sewing machine having, in

combination, arhook needle, a loop taker for -;passing the needle thread around the bobbin thread, a work support, a thread take-up for drawing down the needle loop, means for de- 'taining the needle loopagainst theraction of ithe take-up a predetermined distance above the" work, and a constant throw auxiliary take-11p for setting the stitch in the work prior-tothe formation of the next needle loop.

.A lockstitch sewing machine having, incombination, a'hook needle, a loop taker for :passing vthe needle thread around the bobbin thread, a work-supporha thread ten- :sion, athread take-up for drawing down the needle loop against the tension, means for rdetaining the :needle loop against the action :;()f :the take-up i-a predetermined distance above the work,-:a thread loick, andl a constant -throw auxiliary "take-up cooperating there- HWithZfOI'l setting the stitchzin the work prior .to the formation-of the next-needle loop.

- 9. A lockstitoh sewing machine having, in

wcombinatiomza hook needle, a loop taker for :passingthe'needle thread around the bobbin thread, :a work support, a presser foot, a

threadtens-iomra loop detainingfingermountup "having a constantthrow cooperating 45,0"

therewith to set the stitch in the work.

10. A l'ockstitch sewing machine vhaving, in combination, azhook-needle, a loop taker for passing theneedle thread around'thebobbin threa'd,"a work support, a thread tension, means adapted to *engage with the needle loop a predetermined distance above the wor k, a thread take-up for drawing down 'the needleloop against thetension into contact withthe loop engaging means and there- -=after fordrawing additional thread through ithe tension from the supply for the next stitch, aazthread lock, and means cooperating :itherewithufor pulling downthe loop a predetermined amount to set the stitch in the 7 "Work; v

thread, a' work support, a presser foot, an abutment on the presser foot renderedtopen' ative by the relative movement of thework and to the presser foot in feeding the work "todraw off bobbinthread for the next succeeding stitch, and means for drawing down the needle loop after ,passing over the boba, bin thread to setthe stitch l2. Alockstitch sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle, a loop taker for passing the needle thread around the bobbin thread, a work support, a presser foot, an

abutment on the presser foot rendered operative by the relativeimovement of the presser foot and the work to draw off bobbin thread, a threadtension, a thread takeup for idrawing down the'needle loop against the tension, a loop detaining finger on the presser foot for engaging the needle loop a predetermined distance above the work, a thread lock, and a constant throw auxiliary take-up cooperating therewith to set the stitch in the work. i l V 13. A lockstitch sewing machine having, in combination, a hook needle,a loop taker for passing the needle thread around the bobbin thread, a thread tension, a thread take-up acting against the tension to draw down the needle loop to apredetermined pointwith relation to the surface of the work and thereafter to draw thread A through the tension from'the supply for the next stitch, a thread lock, and means for thereafter setting the stitch against the thread lock. V f

14. A lockstitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming andsetting devices including a hook needle,a thread tension, means for drawing down the needle loopagainst the tension untilthe resistance 7 to the .furthermovement of theloop exceeds the resistance, offered by the tension, and thereafter for drawing ofi" additional thread through the tension from the'thread supply,

and a thread lock against which the stitch isset, a 15. A lo'ckstitch sewing machine having,

"in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a thread tension, means for pulling on the thread to draw down the needle loop until the resistance .to the'further movement of the loop exceeds the resistance offered by the tension, then to draw thread from the supply for the next stitch, and finally to set the stitch, and a thread lock cooperating with saidthread pulling means to set the stitch a uniform distance into the work,

16. A 'lockstitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and setting ClBVlCGS including a hook needle, a thread tension, a take-up for drawlng down theneedle loop againstthetension until the I her on the presser I we resistance to the {further inovennentyof the 100p eizceeds the resistance I v sion, athread lock mounted to operate upon f I "the thread between; the take-up'and the work,

and an auXiliary-take-up operating upon the thread between the lock -e the stitch against theloek. V t

17. A lockstitch shoe sewing machine havstitch forming: and 'setting devices including 'a hook needle, a thread throw take-up fordraw- V 'ing, in combination,

sion until the res'stanceto the further move-' inent of the loop exceedsthe' resistance gof:

a thread lock mounted; v to operatejupon the thread between the constant throw take-up and stan't throw auxiliary take-un'operating'upon the. thread between the a 18. Alockstitch sewing machine having, in o I combinationgstitch;forming and settingdervices including a hook needle,'acontainer for Y 7 taker adaptedto en- 11 gage the bobbin threadbetweenthe con- 1 a V I tainer' and the work to pull off additional j I through which the thread in combination, stitch formlng and'setting tension, .a constant the bobbin thread, a loop.

' vary the offered by the ten.-

ing downthe needle loop against the tenfered by the, tension,

the work, and a conto set the stitch against the-lock.

bobbin thread, and a'series of guide holes devices including a'h'obk needle. a'contai-ner "for thebobbin'thre ad,-apresser'foot,a mem foot adapted to draw off 7 and lav bobbin thread alongthe surfac'eof. V the work-and a pulLoflidevic adapted to engage thebobbin thread between the container and the work torpull off additional bobbin?" thread. 1 e V 20. A lockstit'ch sewing machin in combinatiom stitch forming and setting ,tainer and the work to :,b0bibin thread, a take-up stitch adjustable to vary the amount of bobbin I accordance with thesaid'adjustment,

devices includinga hook needle-aicontainer for the bobbin thread, a presser'foot, a meniber thereon adapted to draw off along the surface'of the work r bobbin thread for the next 'stitchQa pull-ofii' device adapted to engage the bobbin threadjbetween the conis set into the work, and

In testimony whereofI have slgned niy nameto this specification. 7 ERASTUS E; c

workto t; a

lock and. the work f "I may be passed to 7V 7 amount ot-t-hread pulled-ofifrom {the container bv the loop'taker.

I I 19; Aj lockstitch-sewing machine Q having: landllay i pull'ofi additional 7 for settingLthe f h the distance the lock 7 D 7 means for'varying; thread pulled off in 

